Technical Changing spare parts and adjusting ATTALINK settings


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Adjusting settings - Changing spare parts

NB : the illustrations below correspond to ATTALINK model 6A and may differ slightly from other models


I- Sharpening the metal brake if the metal strip does not feed through correctly

Sharpen the brake flat on the lower side (photo 1) and bevelled on the upper side (photo 2), with a medium grain file, taking care to remove metal filings as they appear on the blade of the brake. To do this, start by sharpening the flat underside, and then gently work your way to the upper side of the blade. To check how sharp the blade is, pull the metal strip back firmly with a pair of pliers: the brake should stop the metal strip from moving back (photo 3).

II- Changing the metal brake or the metal brake spring.

1- Lift the brake support using a screw driver (photo 4).
IMPORTANT!!! take careful note of the position of the support in relation to the arm of the tying machine in order to be able to return it to its original position later.
2- Remove the 2 side protectors from the brake axis.
3- Remove the brake axis taking care not to let the spring jump out (protect your face), and remove the brake and the spring (photo 5).
4- Change the part which needs replacing.
5- Replace the axis together with the spring and the brake, as well as the new side protectors ; once removed, the protectors are difficult to return to their original positions.
6- Push the brake support back to its initial position.
7- If the spring has been replaced, trim the short end level with the brake to avoid risk of injury when using the tying machine. Also tension the end of the spring resting on the inner side of the arm to ensure the brake is fairly stiff (photo 6): if the spring is too slack, the brake blade will not work properly.

III- Changing the spring-blade.

1- Remove the rivet using a knife (photo 7) and remove the worn blade.
2- Slide the new blade (part n°8 / n°6-8) into the slit of the metal cutter maintaining the curvature (inset photo 8).
3- Insert the blade with its new rivet into the hole in the blade support passing the rivet from above the hole.
4- Flatten the head of the rivet using multiple pliers taking care not to modify the position of the brake support system (photo 9).

IV- Complete or partial replacement of the metal cutter.

1- Remove the aluminium strip from the slit in the metal cutter.
2- Remove the fixing screw from the guillotine (n°5C) which is located on the nylon screw side (photo10).
3- Open out one side of the arm so that the metal cutter is levered out of its normal position (photo 11).
4- Change the part(s) needing replacement and return the guide thread blade to the slit in the metal cutter.
5- Place the tenons of the internal part of the metal cutter (part n°6a) opposite their sockets and insert firmly using a pair of multigrip pliers (photo 12).
6- Screw the blocking screw back on to the guillotine (part n°5C).
7- Adjust the settings for metal cutting (see paragraph V).

V- Adjusting the metal cutting mechanism

Vigouroux provides a tool which can be used specifically for this (photo 16)

Check that the metal strip is feeding through correctly and that the cut is occurring at the correct moment of the closing cycle.
1- The metal should extend approx. 1 mm beyond the inner part (photo 13).
If the metal does not feed through sufficiently, slightly fold the adjusting lip on the handle by pushing it forward ; if it is feeding through too fast, fold the lip backwards (photo 14). The lip allows one to increase or decrease the curvature of the metal during the closing cycle thus enabling one to modify the length of the metal strip which comes out of the slit of the metal cutter when the tying machine is reopened. Naturally, these adjustments should be carried out only once one is sure that the metal brake is working correctly (photo 3).

2- If necessary, adjust the point at which the metal is cut. To do this, operate the tying machine very slowly holding the plastic end of the thread block (part n°19N) with your finger until the metal cutter clicks shut (photo 15).
This should happen when the plastic edge of the thread block (arrow A on photo 15) is located in the area shaded on photo 15. If cutting occurs before this, fold the angle of rod n°13 (arrow B of photo 16) further; if it occurs later, straighten the rod (arrow A of photo 16). Use the tools we provide for this.
3- Carry out the operations described in 1 and 2 above one after the other, as each adjustment impacts on the next. It is also recommended to make these adjustments gradually, in small incremental steps.

VI- Changing the thread cutter (part n°4A)

a- On the ATTALINK-3A only, remove the recall spring (part n°14C)
b- Unscrew the maintaining screw (part n°15) from the casing feed (part n°18A) and remove it.
c- Unscrew screw n°3 maintaining the thread cutter (part n°4A) and retainer (part n°25).
d- Replace the thread cutter and relocate the retainer.

e- Return the screw maintaining the cutter/retainer in place to its position.
f- Return the casing (part n°18A) to its original position.
g- Screw together the casing and the thread cutter (part n°20C) keeping the sides of the arm tight and level with the axis of the thread retainer.
For the ATTALINK-3A, reconnect the recall spring.
h- Check that the blade will fit easily into the slot of the guillotine (part n°5 C) as the tying machine is closed.
N.B. : For how to adjust parts n°4 on support n°18, please send your request by e-mail.

VII- Thread blocking device (part n°19N)

The thread support device is at an angle of 90 to 95° in relation to the upright of the pincer arm (photo 18). Maintain this angle for the thread to feed correctly.

The thread blocking device consists of 2 moving parts, an upper plastic part and a lower metal part; both are connected to an axis and tensioned using a spring.

1- Adjusting the shape of the lower thread blocking device.
The shape of the lower thread blocking device is shown on photos 19 and 20. Seen in profile, it should be at a slight angle to the upper part so that it is the tip of it which exercises maximum pressure on the thread. Similarlry, seen from the front, it should be at an angle with the upper part in order to ensure that the thread is blocked as close as possible to the eyelet through which the thread feeds. These adjustments are made using pliers.

2- Adjusting the position of the lower thread blocking device.

The lower thread blocking device must pass, as the tying machine is closed, laterally as close as possible to the eyelet feeding the thread through (photo 21) and, in height, slightly above the hole through which the thread passes (photo 22). Any lateral adjustment should be made using pliers and any height adjustment using the blade of a screw driver:
a- If the lower thread blocking device passes too high, reshape it backwards (under spring blade n°20C) by immobilising it with the tip of a screw driver and pressing down on the front part with your fingers (photo 23)
b- If it passes too low, push it up by levering it with a screw driver (photo 24).

3- Adjusting the angle of the plastic upper thread blocking device. Fine-tuning.

The position of this part is such that when the tying machine is closed (photo 25), it shifts approx. 2 mm above the thread block guide return (circled in red). It is the spring blade of the thread block (part n°20C) which balances its position.
By using pliers to adjust the pressure on points A and B (photos 26 and 27), one can set the angle of the thread block and its swing back under the thread block guide return.
4- Spring-blade tension (part n°20C) of the thread blocking device
As a result of the pressure it applies, the spring-blade stabilises the whole thread blocking device by allowing it to resist, to a greater or lesser extent, the swing back effect.
If this resistance is too weak, the thread block passes under the eyelet (or jams against it) at each closing (tying) cycle and this prevents it from working correctly. If the resistance is too great, too much friction occurs during the reopening cycle, The tension of the spring blade is adjustable; this requires taking it apart and reshaping it using pliers (photo 28).

VIII- Changing the pin (part n°17 / n°6-17) of the tie advancer (part n°11 / n°6-11)

To change the pin (part n°17 / n°6-17), dismantle the spring (part n°14 / n°6-14), then remove 1 side protector n°10b from one of the sides of axis n°22a / n°6-22a (photo 29). Slide this axis out of its position and remove the used part by lifting the lip holding it into place using a screw driver (photo 30).
Put a new pin into place taking care to position it in the direction shown in photo 31.
Fold the metal lip back with multigrip pliers to hold the pin in place.
Important: the pin has to be able to turn freely - do not overtighten it.
Then rethread the axis passing it through the handle guide, into one eyelet of the pin in the main arm, into pin n°17 / n°6-17, then into the other eyelet of the pin in the main arm, and finally through the other side of the handle guide. Replace the side-protector 10b.

Replace the spring (n°14 / n°6-14).